Be careful to make sure the three retaining ring spacers 42 aren't lost. Remove the choke vacuum diaphram cover 35 by removing the three oval-head screws Carburetor Cleaning. Cleaning must be done with carburetor disassembled, as above. Soak parts all metal parts in carburetor cleaning solvent or lacquer thinner long enough to soften and remove all foreign material.
Use an old toothbrush on the carburetor body. Do not allow cleaning solvent to come in contact with skin. Note: Do not soak the choke heating element, pump diaphragm, float, vacuum diaphragm, or any other rubber or plastic parts in carburetor solvent. Make certain the throttle body carburetor throat, etc. Wash off in suitable solvent, like lacquer thinner, which is basically toluene. Blow out all passages in castings with compressed air. Check carefully to ensure thorough cleaning of obscure areas.
Do NOT use a wire or similar object to "clean" orifices! The carburettor metal is fairly soft and is easily damaged. Make sure all jet orifices and clean and free of obstructions, using compressed air. Note: Compressed air is really best if you have it. If not, I find that "canned air" like Ultra Jet or similar works pretty well. If you don't have a compressor, talk to Santa Claus!
That's how I got mine! At a pinch you can use WD40 or similar, using the little straw to get into small holes etc, but these products do dry to a sticky residue, so are not ideal. If you try removing the idle shut-off valve and the air correction jet the brass bolt head in between the float bowl and the main throat and the idle jet itself, and then blast air through the passages in both directions, that might get it. You should see some air come out of the progression holes in the carburetor throat just near the throttle butterfly when it's in the closed position.
Carburetor Reassembly. Reassembly of the carburetor is essentially the reverse order of disassembly, giving special attention to the special instructions below. Replace the Following Parts -. Float pin retainer 7 Carburetor body-to-cover gasket 6 Main jet plug seal 15 Volume control screw O-ring 18 Carburetor-to-intake manifold gasket Special Reassembly Instructions -.
Check the float valve for binding and leakage. It should not be possible to blow air through the valve while the needle is pressed lightly onto its seat. Check the float for leaks by immersing it in warm water.
That will try to "inflate" the air inside the float. If bubbles appear, replace the float. Check the float lever for a worn spot depression where it makes contact with the fuel inlet needle valve.
Replace the float assembly, if necessary. Be sure to specify the rectangular shaped float Part 8. The proper float valve washer 4 must be used for the specific type of carburetor. A micrometer helps to make the distinction. Note: It is very important that you install the correct needle seat gasket. This gasket sets the fuel height in the float bowl; erratic behavior may result if the gasket is not correct. This little ball bearing MUST be in place. Install the plastic float pin retainer it looks like a plastic version of a paper staple, with a curved spine with the bow curve facing the wall of the float chamber.
If the curved spine is towards the float, it will limit the flaot movement. When installing the accelerator pump diaphragm 24 and spring, 23 make sure the larger end of spring is properly seated in the carburetor body cavity. Be sure to install the diaphragm with plunger toward pump cover. See the exploded view. Be sure to use the correct body joint gasket; there will probably be several in your kit. Use the old one for comparison. Note: Dave found that NONE of the several top-to-body gaskets provided in the kit was the right size or configuration for his carburetor he was possibly sent a kit for the earlier series carburettors.
Make sure the old one you took out stays in good shape so it can be reused. On your 34PICT3 have you noticed that besides your current rearward facing vacuum nipple there is another boss for a vacuum port in the casting just to the right of it? When that boss is properly drilled out it draws its vacuum directly from the venturi. Post by vwlover77 » Thu Jun 19, am The Bentley manual for the US spec Beetle specifies that from Spring of , the Beetle had a single vacuum hose to the distributor, which seems to match your situation.
Although it does not show a photo of the later plastic air box setup, it says that "in its latest form, the air cleaner is equipped with a thermostatic valve that contols a flap operated by intake manifold vacuum". But, the models prior to the plastic air box source the vacuum from a port on the intake manifold itself.
Someone with a '73 or '74 Beetle will have to chime in to confirm how the air box is tied in. I belive that rear port provides manifold vacuum at nearly closed throttle only. Don 78 Westy 71 Super Beetle Convertible Autostick "When we let our compassion go, we let go of whatever claim we have to the divine. Maybe there are three vacuum ports - looks like one hose comes from the front of the carb to the right air horn, and two one from the left side and one from the rear go to the DVDA distributor can.
Post by vwlover77 » Thu Jun 19, am Is that the correct air cleaner for '73? I thought they went to the big plastic one that year. Maybe it wasn't until ' Your photo shows the dual-vacuum line dizzy, which he does not have in his Bus. Apparently, the Beetle must be an early '73 to still have that dizzy assuming all is as-delivered from the factory. Overview In the 34 PICT -3, in common with all carburetors, air and gasoline are drawn in by vacuum created by the pistons descending in the cylinders.
Tools needed The only tools needed to set up the carburetor are a flat-blade screw driver and a tachometer. Carburetor adjustment procedure Here are the steps involved in setting up the carb. Notice the iterative nature of finding the optimal screw positions : Initial checks Jet cleaning Fast idle adjustment Volume control screw initial adjustment Idle speed initial adjustment Volume control screw final adjustment Idle speed final adjustment 1.
Initial checks With the engine thoroughly warmed-up, remove the air filter and check the choke is fully open. Verify that all vacuum hoses are connected. Jet cleaning Unless the carb has recently been rebuilt the two jets should be taken out and cleaned to ensure there are no blockages. Fast idle adjustment At idle with the engine warm the throttle butterfly should be almost completely closed. Volume control screw initial adjustment Carefully screw this in until you can feel it seating.
Hook up the tachometer, replace the air filter and start the engine. Idle speed initial adjustment Idle speed is set by adjusting the larger screw.
Volume control screw final adjustment Return to the small screw and turn this slowly to increase engine speed. Find the highest speed then turn the screw inwards so that the revs drop slightly.
Idle speed final adjustment Go back to the bypass screw and turn this to set the idle speed back to rpm. Smooth running If your engine does not now idle smoothly there may be a deeper underlying problem. Was this article helpful?
From this point on, leave the Fast Idle Adjuster screw alone. Next set the idle mixture. This is done using the Volume Control Screw.
Note: The Volume Control Screw is the smaller of the two adjusting screws, located on the left side of the carburetor just above the Idle Cutoff solenoid which has a black wire from the positive side of the coil attached to it. The Volume Control Screw is used to set the idle mixture. Note: Before setting the Volume Control Screw per the step below, turn the Bypass Screw the larger screw in the left side out 2.
Now unscrew it exactly 2. This is the initial setting. Note: Though you want to be careful to not screw the Volume Control Screw in too far, you also want to make sure that it is initially firmly seated before unscrewing it as specified. If you don't start with the Volume Control Screw firmly seated, you may have trouble adjusting the idle with the Bypass Screw , to the point where you may have it turned all the way in and still have the idle too high. This condition will cause stumbling on acceleration if not corrected.
Make sure the automatic choke is fully open — pull and release the throttle arm if needed so the stepped cam rotates and the Fast Idle Adjuster is sitting at the bottom of the stepped cam. Now to set the idle speed. This is done by using the Bypass Screw. Note: Again, the idle speed is NOT set with the Fast Idle Adjuster on the top of the throttle arm as it is on the older 28 and 30 series carburetors - though its name Fast Idle Adjuster would lead you to think that its used to set the idle.
As a starting point, turn the larger Bypass Screw whichever way most likely out to set the idle at rpm fast idle if you don't have a tachometer. For a semi-automatic car, use rpm. It's far better to have the idle speed a little fast than too slow. Note: See our Tune-Up Procedure for instructions on how to attach and use a dwell-tachometer. With the engine warmed up, idling at about rpm, and the choke fully open, go back to the Volume Screw and adjust it slowly to obtain the fastest smoothest running idle speed this is usually out - counter-clockwise.
Then turn the Volume Control screw back IN clockwise very slowly until the engine speed drops by about rpm. Go back to the larger Bypass screw again to reset the idle speed to - rpm. Again, a little fast is better than too slow.
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